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Ivyleaf maple
It is a deciduous small tree or large shrub growing to 5 to 10 m (rarely 15 m) in height, with smooth grey bark. The young shoots are green, often tinged pink, hairy at first with whitish hairs, becoming grey in the second year. The leaves are trifoliate, with a very slender red petiole up to 10 cm long; the three leaflets are 4 to 10 cm long and 2 to 4 cm broad, with 1 to 2 cm petiolules, and coarsely serrated margins. The flowers are produced in pendulous racemes 10 to 16 cm long, each flower with four sepals and petals. The fruit is a paired samara, the nutlets are 7 mm long, the wings 1.5 to 2.5 cm long, spreading at an acute angle.
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Perennial
Lifespan
Yellow, Red, Green, Bronze
Leaf Color
Yellow
Flower Color
Deciduous
Leaf type
0 - 35 ℃
Ideal Temperature
Spring
Growth Season
Slow
Growth Rate

Images of Ivyleaf maple

Quickly Identify Ivyleaf maple

1
Opposite trifoliate leaves with Zelkova-like serrations
2
Fragrant yellow pendant raceme flowers in spring
3
Smooth gray bark with occasional fissures
4
Initial reddish-purple stem transitioning to gray-brown
5
Upright growth with widening globose canopy
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Care Guide for Ivyleaf maple

Every 1-2 weeks
Water
Full sun
Sunlight
0 - 35 ℃
Ideal Temperature
Garden Soil
Soil Type
Water: Ivyleaf maple prefers moderate humidity and should be watered every 1-2 weeks, keeping the soil slightly moist but not saturated. As an outdoor deciduous plant, it enters dormancy in colder months, necessitating reduced watering frequency.
Fertilize: For potted seedlings, use slow-release fertilizer exclusively. For seedlings in gardens, apply fertilizer three times annually: early spring, early summer during growth, and once in the fall.
Pruning: Ivyleaf maple is a deciduous tree with trifoliate leaves and vibrant fall colors. Prune in early spring to shape and maintain air circulation. Regular pruning promotes healthier growth but avoid excessive cutting to prevent stress and hinder flowering.
Propagation: Propagation of ivyleaf maple includes grafting, cuttings, and sowing seeds. Grafting is prevalent, using strong-rooted seedlings but may have a poor affinity. Cuttings are slower, mainly for bonsai. Sowing seeds creates new varieties, though hybrid traits may not be consistent in offspring.
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